Days 31 & 32 Wurzburg to Aschaffenburg, Germany

We traveled by express train from Wurzburg to Frankfurt to meet up with our former German exchange student and his family.  They met us at the train station and gave us a guided tour of downtown Frankfurt, feted us to a nice lunch along the Main River and then we had a quick bite at a Bavarian Restaurant before catching a late train back to Wurzburg to prepare for our last day of riding.

The morning began with some heavy rainfall.  This created some symmetry in that we recalled the first day of our ride in Spain which pelted us with heavy rainfall and so it was with our last day of riding as well.  We were determined, however, to make it Aschaffenburg.  After passing through several quaint towns, beautiful vineyards and riparian woods, we had ridden about 140 km (85 miles)  but we were still short of Aschaffenburg.  We knew that we would be riding in the dark if we proceeded.  So, we used our trusty DBB App to buy train tickets and rode a regional train into Aschaffenburg.  There, we rode to our friends, the Brass Family, where we were welcomed like family!  We have been resting, got our CV-19 test (negative) and ate lots of good food.  Unfortunately, the Swiss Post seems to have lost our hiking gear and good clothes so we return tomorrow in our biking togs.

Adios, Ciao, AuRevoir, Ahoj, Auf Wiedersehen.  A successful trip!  About 1900 miles in all on our bikes and some train travel to boot.  Until next trip!  John & Maureen

Old town (rebuilt after WWII) Frankfurt

Arrival in Aschaffenburt

Days 29 and 30 Schonbrunn to Kulmbach to Wurzburg

 Germany wins the prize for the best bike trail system we have ridden.  For the most part, the trails are asphalt, smooth and well marked.  The countryside is forested and interspersed with agricultural fields and the trail seems to steer us through small lovely towns.   A lot of the ride was through mountains and we rode through a small skiing town with ski jumps and bobsled courses, etc.  Along the way, John was stung just above the eye by some sort of venomous insect and his eye was nearly swollen shut.  Even now the swelling has moved to the cheek.   We can tell Autumn is arriving as the leaves are beginning to fall and turn color.  Kulmbach, like most larger towns has an impressive castle.  We also had another wonderful German dinner . . . yum!

We rode on to Bamberg, where we decided to take a train to Wurzburg and, in turn, take a train today to Frankfurt to meet up with a friend who was a high school exchange student who lived with us many years ago.  It was the only way we could manage to visit with him and his family.  So we will take the train to Frankfurt and back to Wurzburg today before completing our biking trip tomorrow as we will end it in Aschaffenburg.  Wurzburg is a beautiful city with a monumental fortress and many beautiful cathedrals and bridges.  It also happens to be where some of the Dentler clan is from!

Schonbrunn Hotel and Restaurant

Bike trail on the way to Kulmbach

Wurzburg Castles and City Wall

Wurzburg & the Main River

more: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LciQmTmPnrgKo4Dh6

Days 26, 27 and 28 Prague to Beroun to Carlsbad, CZ to Schonbrunn, Germany

 We took an extra day in Prague to enjoy the city, its flavors, its charm and sights.  We enjoyed a self-guided walking tour that took us to some statuary, the Jewish quarter, Cerny's piss statue, the old castle, watch tours, cathedrals, etc.  What a day and what a city.  Of course we had to supp a few cappuccinos while we watched the crowds.  We also saw a great exhibit about Vlaclav  Havel in the old Senate gardens.  We were duly impressed and much of what he had to say is very relevant to politics back in the U.S.  Our hotel was very nice and tucked in right by the Charles Bridge with a great restaurant.  

After enjoying a day of walking about Prague (walking is a new sensation) we began our ride to the border area.  Getting out of Prague was a bit tough but once outside the city all was well until John stopped to admire some rock climbers in a steep canyon  Turns out Maureen was also obsering the climbers and rear ended John!   John fared well but one of the panniers was ruined beyond repair. At about the same time, the raindrops began to fall and dark skies gathered so at Beroun, CZ we took a train via a circuitous route  to Karlova Vary, otherwise known as Carlsbad.  Carlsbad is an amazing spa city with many hot springs and an abundance of old hotels, many of which are of art nouveau style.  We stayed an extra day to sit out the rain and buy replacement panniers.  We also enjoyed a spa for a few hours.  We also happened upon a beer-fest in the Central Park and did our part to take care of some beer and brauts.  

Ahoj, Czech Republic and Hallo Germany.  The Czech Rep

The Czech Republic's trails were really nice.  Since it severed ties with the USSR or Russia, it appears to have made great strides.  The roads, infrastructure and bike trails were very impressive.  The towns were clean and neat and folks seem happy.  They don't use the Euro but instead the Czech Crown and most things were inexpensive compared to Austria, Italy, etc.  All in all we had a great time in the CR and enjoyed riding through oak forests, along streams and through agricultural areas.  So we settled into an amazing hotel and restaurant in rural Bavaria.  The hospitality is great as is the food and drink.

View of the Charles Bridge, Prague

old town Prague cathedral

Carlsbad Spa Hotel (setting for movie Grand Budapest Hotel)

Orthodox St Peter & Paul Cathedral Carlsbad

View of Bavaria Germany

Refreshing after a day of riding.

Links to more  https://photos.app.goo.gl/4HY5GqkyxXkZ3rAu9

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Days 24 & 25 Biking from Ceske Budejovice to Kamy nad Vlavou to Prague

 Our riding has been very beautiful; largely through small villages on agricultural roads -- paved!  This area of the Czech Republic is rural with rolling hills, forests, and farms.  We have been riding about 80 miles per day.  We passed through a lovely little town on a river and happened across a canoe and kayak racing regatta for young folks.  It reminded us of our Gig Harbor team.  However, these teams had their own buses, event tents and all manner of community support.  We lingered and watched for awhile before resuming our ride.  We stayed in a town on the river where there was only one open restaurant and the offerings were quite slim . . .  we ended up with boiled potatoes, potato pancakes and french fired potatoes and schnitzel.  The bonus was a group of townspeople in the restaurant were playing guitars, flutes, banjos and  singing their Chech music. 

The next day, we started with an easy ride until we arrived at a lake where the trail stopped with no apparent way across the lake.  We ran into a couple on the shore that spoke only Czech who were enjoying their 10 am  bottle of unlabeled hooch.  With the help of Google translate they offered to take us across the lake in their own boat.  With few other options we paid our 20 euros and strapped our bikes to the bow of the boat and began our ferry crossing hoping for the best.  All turned out well and we picked up the trail from the other side of the lake where we continued on to Prague.  As we approached Prague the east bank of the Vlatak river biking and hiking trail was teaming with walkers, skaters, and bikers enjoying a beautiful Sunday autumn day. We plan to spend a day resting and taking in the sights.

Days 22 and 23 BIking from Linz, Austria to Vissy Brod, Czech Rep. to Ceske Budejovice, CR

 Auf Wiedersehen Austria, ahoj, Czech Republic!  We rode from LInz via some beautiful paved farm roads nearly to the Czech border but we missed a turn and ended up several km to the east of where we needed to be to catch our Eurovelo Trail #7 to Prague.    Nearly the moment we entered the CR, our lovely paved roads turned into rough rutted, rock strewn roads or a track for several miles.  We were running low on time and energy and our bike batteries were drained so we were getting desperate to find a hotel.  After several hours, of up and down and some very rough roads ,  we entered Vissy Brod and the only place available was in a sad Penzion.  The economic differences between rural Austria and the CR are very apparent.  But the next day, we found very nice country farm roads through fields and forests and through some beautiful picturesque cites such as Cesky Krumlov. We had a great cappuccino there and had some nice conversations and then rode on to Ceske Budejovice along rivers, streams, forests, etc.  Generally, everything here is inexpensive -- a nice hotel and dinner are less than half of what we were paying in Austria!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RB6TbyTGknmej2WbA

Days 20 & 21 Salzburg to Obernberg to Linz, Austria

 Riding in Austria is like riding in a storybook.  The hillsides often are populated with castles, fortresses and turreted city walls.  The hills are green and the towns are impeccably clean and amazingly quiet.  For example, charming Oberngerg where we stayed with its pastel facades, arranged in a neat square.  (See photo).  We ate dinner at a very typical hometown restaurant, with a selection of dishes like wild boar,  roasted deer, boiled pig head stew, wiener schnitzel, etc.  The area where we stayed is famous for is pumpkin dishes and pumpkin seed oil.  Our dessert was fantastic -- vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce and pumpkin oil which gave a very unique and wonderful flavor.

The ride from Obernberg to Linz was beautiful and interesting but had its moments.  The trail jumped back and forth from each side of the Danube so we ended up taking five ferries during our 157 km ride.  Sometimes the trail was blocked by rock slides and sometimes construction projects blocked the trail. All in all, it was quite picturesque and the trail itself was paved for 99% of the time.  We got into Linz quite late and have not yet explored the city.  It is the 3rd largest city in Austria

our hotel

riding the ferry to other side of the Danube

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NTdmwYaK4cXThLy29

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NTdmwYaK4cXThLy29

Days 18 and 19 Bad Gastein to Salzburg

 Wow, what a great ride. Leaving Bad Gastein we were surprised to find a huge waterfall just a few paces from our hotel!  It is right in the middle of town.  The ride was mostly downhill and the weather was perfect (a little cool for the first time on this trip).   We went through picture perfect towns along the Salzsach River.  Salzburg is one of the most beautiful cities we have ever visited.  So picturesque!  As an added bonus we visited and had dinner with one of our Alps hiking companions, Ruth Schnabl, who lives in Salzburg.  She gave a post-dinner tour of some of the highlights of Salzburg.   We like the city so much we took a day off to tour the castle fortress and hear some classical music -- Mozart of course.  Ok, on towards Prague!

Coolest McDonald's sign ever

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cpLaJctqXeAZjRZQ8

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Days 15. 16 & 17 Pavia to Bolzano, IT to San Candido IT to Bad Gastein, Austria

 Given our struggles with the trails along the Po River valley, given our time constraints, etc., we decided to jump ahead from Pavia to Bolzano in the foothill area leading to the Dolomites.  We had to take some regional trains with three transfers due to the fact that bicycles can only be brought onto certain lines.  Getting bikes onto the trains can be a challenge.  We had to change trains in Milan, and Verona.  Turns out we missed a connection to Bolzano.  Also, some of the regional trains can be crowded so we had to stand between cars for a couple of hours.  A slice of life goes by on these trains.  Bolzano is a beautiful bustling city with many tourists, mostly German.  In Tyrolean Italy, the signs are in Italian and German and most of the residents speak German.  The streets, buildings and shops are all clean and well maintained. 

Upon riding out of  Bolzano we were immediately impressed with the condition of the trail.  We saw workers sweeping and cleaning the trail, trimming grass, etc.  We rode from Bolzano to San Candido which is the summit of the pass leading to Austria.  The views in San Candido are amazing.  The ride and day was fantastic.  The views tempt one to go hiking into the Dolomites.  It was all climbing up to San Candido but the grade was very gradual and gentle because the trail followed an old railroad bed.   We rode 78 miles.

Arrivederci Italy, Guten tag Austria.  The Austrian border was only a few km from San Candido.  From San Candido the trail dropped elevation so we really enjoyed riding this area.  We got up to speeds of about 50 kph.  The trail was well marked and beautiful.  We traveled through many charming and well manicured towns, each with a tall unique church steeple.  After about 90 miles, we had short but steep climb up to a rail station where a train took us through a long tunnel.  On the other side of the mountain we road our bikes down to Bad Gastein which is an old spa town.  The train takes both bikes and automobiles.  The only other way around is about a 10 hour drive.  The train dropped us off about 6 km from our hotel.  Our hotel which dates back to the 19th century.  It has a funky charm but a heated pool and sauna awaited us!  How delightful after riding 100 miles.

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Days 13 and 14 Torino to Casale Monferrato to Pavia

We knew that there could be some challenges on this route as the trail is not well developed and signed but we gave it a go.  The results were mixed .  . . some trails led to dead-ends, rough trails and difficult riding.  On the other hand, some areas were  very nice riding as they were on asphalt trails.  As a consequence we did not travel as far and fast as we had hoped.  The terrain is relatively flat following the flood plain of the River Po.  The trail bisected many fields of rice, corn and soy beans.  Casale Monferrato was a really nice town with many promenades, restaurants and outdoor cafes.  We stayed an at extraordinarily nice B&B and had one of our finer dinners yet at a Michelin-starred restaurant.  The riding from Monferrato to Pavia was equally challenging with some beautiful riding as well.  We are seeing many golden colors in the fields reminding us that fall is coming.

Our lunch spot on the Po River Canal (tributary)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rop67XZwC8xxZ1ta6

Days 11 & 12 Cannes to Torino (Turin)

 Au Revoir France, Bon Giorno, Italy.  Due to the condition of the trail and the danger presented, we decided to take the train from Cannes to Ventimiglia and from there to Torino.  Given the attractions in Torino we decided to take a day off from riding and see the sights. The highlight was the Egizio Egyptian Museum which, reputedly, the best museum of Egyptian artifacts outside of what remains in Egypt.  Torino has beautiful buildings and plazas as the Savoy dynasty wanted to make it the Paris south of the Alps  The alfresco dining is lovely in the warm climate and food is terrific.   The area was part of France for a time (thanks to Napoleon) but was folded back into the Savoy Kingdom and later Torino was a center for the reorganization of Italy.  We stayed in a cool hotel which was the old Fiat factory which has a test track on the roof.  The factory is now home to hotels, stores, restaurants, etc.

The Cathedral of San Lorenzo (Baroque) with very unique dome.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SHYmDuGyNJp3ZsBd6

Day 10 Draguignon to Cannes

 The ride from Draguignon to Cannes was, all in all, delightful.  More of riding through the hills of Provence replete with vineyards, oaks, a few orchards,  olive trees, etc.  We had many downhill segments with hairpin turns where we got up to 45 kph to 50 kph ( about 30 mph), which is about the limit of our bravery.  Finally, the road emptied out onto the beach where we dipped our toes into the Mediterranean.  It felt so good that we promptly checked into a hotel and changed into swim suits and really did go swimming.  Amazing how that water refreshed us.   We only clocked about 70 miles.

Day 9 Ginasservis to Draguignan

 What a nice day to ride.  The skies were overcast and cool which made for good riding.  We have been riding through some large regional parks, the latest one is called "Verdon" and it makes for nice scenery with oak forests and vineyards interspersed here and there.  We also continue to see winter squash and even melons being readied for harvest.  Today's wine selection is a local Cotes du Rhone Villages (for a whopping 6 euros).  And it is very good!  We ended our ride in in somewhat large city and turned in early.  We rode only about 78 miles.  Tomorrow we think we may once again reach the coast near Monaco.  Enough for today.

link to more photos  https://photos.app.goo.gl/meawrQwVfjrtpAWy7

Day 8 Apt to Ginasservis

 Today began with a beautiful ride from Languedoc into the hills of Provence.  The weather was beautiful.  Part of the joy of riding is having a great cappuccino in little towns.  Yum.  Also just having a picnic lunch with wine, cheese, bread and maybe even some sardines here and there  . . .  and finished off with fine chocolate.  After lunch, however, things went downhill and we lost our trail.  We ended up in circles and rode on rocky roads and then to get where we nee0.ded to go, we ended up riding on some roadways that were a bit scary until we got onto some quiet country roads.  We rode until 6 pm and were beat by the time we found a hotel.  82 miles.  A shower, some wine and dinner brought us back to life.